If New York City is a melting pot of cultures, religions and identities, then Sarajevo is vegetable stew. This vibrant city, has always been at the crossroads of Balkan culture, however, its unique diversity was not a source of severe conflict until the early nineties when this lovely mosaic shattered. As you walk down Sarajevo’s main streets, one cannot help but notice the mosques, temples, cathedrals, and orthodox churches that hug the main pedestrian walkway. Not only religion, but the visible diversity in architecture reveals who has controlled this city at different times throughout history. The city seems confused as to where it is located on the map. The old town compares to Jerusalem or Turkey, with hand-woven oriental rugs and pasminas hanging from the beams of Turkish Cafes. But within the blink of an eye, the buildings transform into Austro-Hungarian style, and shortly these are followed by an even more modern façade.

The cafes are flooded with groups of Muslims, Jews, and Christians, but they do not intermingle. It wasn’t until I arrived here that I realized that their reasons for identifying as a particular nationality (Serb, Croat, Bosniak) is not because that country is their origin but rather that country practices a similar religion to that which they identify with. Additionally perplexing, is the absence of a “Bosnian” identity. This lack, I suspect has positioned Bosnia in an extremely vulnerable place. In America the majority of us would introduce ourselves firstly as Americans, not as Irish, Greek, or English because of our heritage. We are able to find some common ground through this often trivial, but nevertheless unifying identity. Bosnia, however, is rather composed of three dominant groups of individuals related only in that they live in a common space marked off by invisible and often ignored boundaries.

It does not take an expert to recognize that something terrible happened to the people in this city. I did not find a single spot in Sarajevo where I could stand where there was not a bombed building in clear view. Also the city is saturated with graveyards, and a closer look will reveal that nearly every gravestones date of death is 93’, 94’ or 95’, irregardless of whether the individual was born in 1920 or 1990.

How are the people here able to fully live now? I could not get this question out of my mind, yet the individuals in Sarajevo were so warm, generous and inviting. There was not however any visible public discussion about the past. It appeared as though it was easier not to acknowledge what had happened than to let it constantly haunt their lives. This, however, seems like a unpromising goal since the city is painted with unrelenting reminders of what took place here a little over a decade ago.

On a lighter note, I rang in my 21st with a group of NATO soldiers that happened to be at the venue we chose. This was preceded by a day of workshops on war rapes, human trafficking, Gay and Lesbian movements, and then a “surprise” which turned out to be drumming workshop where I had to march around a school gym for two hours playing a cowbell. Not exactly how I planned to spend the evening of my 21st, but it was surprisingly fun. The next day we left for Mostar which might sound familiar because of the bridge which was bombed there. I decided, as a gift to myself, to get a massage there (in Mostar, Bosnia of all places). I was undressed and lying on the massage table, when I heard unusually large footsteps entering the room. I lifted my head to get a quick glace of my masseuse, who looked like a member of the Bosnian mafia. He was about 6 5’, 250lbs, with a full beard and hands as big as my back. I shouldn’t have expected anything different considering how my birthday extravaganza had gone thus far haha.

The next and final day we spend in Dubrovnik along with two mega-cruise ships full of senior citizens. I have not doubt we were the youngest people in the entire city. The crowds however departed mid-afternoon and from the old stone walls surrounding the city, I witnessed one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. I was able to reflect of the week, I process I am still engaging in. This week was a whirlwind, and I apologize for my inability to effectively encapsulate all that I would like to, but my attempt to consolidate this overwhelming week is proving to be more challenging than I suspected. I will get back to you. Ciao!